Do you know how Japanese green tea is actually made?
It's often assumed that the quality of Japanese tea comes down to the tea master's skill alone. In reality, every stage — from cultivation in the tea field to each stage of processing — shapes the final flavor of the leaf.
The production process for Japanese green tea differs significantly from that of Chinese tea or black tea. Because the leaves are never allowed to oxidize (ferment), Japanese green tea develops its signature bright green liquor and fresh, vibrant flavor.
Step 1: PICKING
Tea picking, known as chatsumi, takes place every year from late April through May.
The timing of the harvest has a major impact on the tea's grade. Leaves picked in spring — known as shincha, or "first flush" tea — are prized for their aroma and command the highest value. New shoots that grow after the first harvest are picked as the second flush (nibancha) and third flush (sanbancha). These later harvests tend to have a lighter aroma, but they contain higher levels of catechins, the antioxidant compounds responsible for many of green tea's health benefits.
There are also two picking methods: hand-picking and machine harvesting. Hand-picking involves carefully selecting the tender young leaves at the very tip of each shoot — often just "one bud and two leaves" — by hand. This method produces the most beautiful leaf shape and the finest aroma and umami, making it the standard for top-grade tea.
Oxidation begins the moment a leaf is picked, so freshly harvested leaves must be steamed immediately to halt the process.
Step 2: Steaming
The defining feature of Japanese tea production is that freshly picked leaves are heated right away. This instantly stops the activity of the oxidative enzymes — in other words, it halts fermentation.
Steaming also removes the raw, grassy smell of fresh leaves and softens them, so the leaves retain their green color and lock in a fresh, vibrant aroma.
The length of the steaming step largely determines the tea's fundamental character — its flavor, aroma, and water color. Steaming time ranges from light steaming (asamushi, 20–30 seconds) to deep steaming (fukamushi, 40–60 seconds) — the style Kagoshima's Chiran Cha is especially known for. The longer the steaming time, the softer the leaves become, the deeper green the water turns, and the richer and fuller the flavor.
Because fermentation is halted, the leaves retain high levels of catechins — powerful antioxidant and antiviral compounds found only in green tea. Since oxidation never progresses, vitamin C is also preserved, which is part of why green tea offers such notable health benefits.
Step 3: Rolling
After steaming, the leaves go through a rolling machine, where the process shapes the leaves while removing moisture.
This stage happens in four careful phases: coarse rolling, rolling without heat, rolling while drying, and final shaping. Skilled artisans monitor the leaves at every stage, adjusting the level of steaming, moisture, and rolling pressure to draw out the tea's best possible flavor at exactly the right moment.
Step 4: Drying
Once rolling is complete, the leaves move on to drying.
If the leaves aren't dried thoroughly, they won't store well and can discolor or degrade in quality, so this step removes the remaining moisture completely.
Once drying is finished, the tea reaches its raw, unrefined form known as aracha. From here, it's typically handed over to a tea master for the finishing process.
Step 5: Sorting (Senbetsu)
Once the aracha is ready, sorting begins.
After purchasing the raw tea through auction, tea masters sort it into stems, dust, and leaf. Raw tea naturally contains a mix of stems and fine particles, and the leaves themselves vary in length, so this step removes the unwanted material and refines the leaf shape.
Step 6: Firing (Hiire)
Firing allows the tea to be stored for longer periods while also enhancing its sweetness and toasty, aromatic notes.
This can be done either with hot-air drying or by pan-firing the leaves over a hot plate.
Step 7: Blending (Gōgumi)
In the final step, the sorted tea is blended by a tea master who draws out the unique characteristics of each batch. By combining leaves from different regions, the blender creates a complexity and harmony that no single batch of tea could achieve on its own.
This process, known as gōgumi (合組), requires exceptional expertise and is considered one of the most specialized roles in tea production.
The Craft Behind Every Cup
Making Japanese green tea is a fusion of science and craftsmanship. Even when the same steps are followed, the countless subtle judgment calls made along the way have a huge impact on the tea's final quality.
That's exactly what makes Japanese tea so diverse — and what makes the skill of its artisans so valuable.
We encourage you to taste and compare different Japanese green teas for yourself, and discover the unique character each one has to offer.
